Brent S
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Smart. Unfortunately the market crashed... honestly I’m in it for the long haul so don’t worry much about ups and downs. Even so, I don’t ever want all my eggs in one basket, so the stock market is just one form of investment.
This weeks preps check-in
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Maverick
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Markets only in correction and it needed it bad
Costco has a whole kit of eneloop (charger, batteries, c and d converter and in a carrying case) for $30. Bought 2.
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Maverick
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Yep, I check the prices between Costco and Amazon, sometimes I get good deals from Amazon but most of the time I have gotten them from Costco.
Brent S
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I wish I had one close here.
Maverick
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If you buy bulk food (on certain things) it may be worth while, but the brands such as Kirkland that Costco sells Amazon sells too, I keep a lot of OC medication Kirkland brand and get them at the same price between Costco and Amazon, Costco has better deals on batteries such as eneloops rechargeables but it’s not all the time. The canned meat are some of the best such as the chicken Kirkland brand 5 year shelf life and cheaper at Costco than Amazon.
Costco website absolutely sucks and each store has independent sales and each store has different prices for the same product and in many cases the reduced price and sales aren’t advertised.
Me too. There might be one in Indy, don't know.
Maverick
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Bunch of them in Georgia
Yes several
Costco locations:
https://wfa.kronostm.com/index.jsp?...ication.hourly.plugin.LocationSearch.doSearch
How many did you get? I wasn’t sure if 2 were enough...I know it is different for each of us, I am just looking for opinions...
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Maverick
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Where I'm coming from, I have some in my BOB, I.N.C.H. bag, I keep some in my Store, my blackout box etc... I have field charger, home and car chargers for all types of rechargeables plus I use the D cell battery adapters for the AA for use in my D cell only lanterns and handhelds, with the adapters I can use akaline, lithium, NiCads/NiMh batteries.
Enerloops
110 AA
88 AAA
Brent S
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I know there are some around, but if I have to drive a good distance to shop there then Amazon is allready cheaper.
Brent S
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Ah, just got the stuff to finish the campers solar system! I love amazon, great price and shipped to my door in a couple days, awesome. Looking forward to beginning to put it together tomorrow. This was the new inverter, cables to hook it up and fuse holders and fuses to protect everything. Can’t wait to have everything ready to camp!
What rating did you say those cables were? They look like 2 AWG not 2/0 AWG. In fact, unless that's a honkin' big inverter, they look smaller than 2 AWG.
Here is a 2 AWG cable and a 2/0 (00) AWG cable with an AA battery for comparison. Of course the thickness of the insulation can affect how thick the cable looks. The hole is the same diameter on both.
Brent S
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The two I bought for joining the batteries are 2/0. The two for connecting the inverter, which came with it are 2AWG. the manual warns that they are only for small loads, not full power. Why even supply them then..... good eye on seeing that in a picture! I noticed it on the table before I looked at the manual, but doubt I would have caught it from a picture.
Most of the charts I've seen are very confusing. I think one reason is the temperature and cable length have big effects on capacity.
Here is the best site I've found so far. It even has a calculator for determining voltage drop.
https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
For short inverter wires, you want to use the "Chassis Wiring" amperage, not the "Power Transmission" amperage, which is for long runs through conduits, etc.
Pure Sine Wave inverters have an efficiency of between 90%-95%. So taking 90% as the worst case scenario, you want to take your max output of the inverter in watts, divide by .9, then divide by 12 to get the 12 v amperage at full load.
So taking your 3000 watt peak inverter that would be 277.8 amps at peak "Surge Power". Max chassis wiring amps for 00 AWG is 283, so that works out just right for 00 AWG cables and your inverter.
Now working backwards for 2 AWG cables, 81 max chassis wiring amps gives a capacity of 1955 watts. That's higher than your "Continuous Power" rating, so for most purposes that would probably be fine. But something like a big compressor motor at startup (which is what the "Surge Power" rating is for) could shut down your inverter using 2 AWG cables.
Here is the best site I've found so far. It even has a calculator for determining voltage drop.
https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
For short inverter wires, you want to use the "Chassis Wiring" amperage, not the "Power Transmission" amperage, which is for long runs through conduits, etc.
Pure Sine Wave inverters have an efficiency of between 90%-95%. So taking 90% as the worst case scenario, you want to take your max output of the inverter in watts, divide by .9, then divide by 12 to get the 12 v amperage at full load.
So taking your 3000 watt peak inverter that would be 277.8 amps at peak "Surge Power". Max chassis wiring amps for 00 AWG is 283, so that works out just right for 00 AWG cables and your inverter.
Now working backwards for 2 AWG cables, 81 max chassis wiring amps gives a capacity of 1955 watts. That's higher than your "Continuous Power" rating, so for most purposes that would probably be fine. But something like a big compressor motor at startup (which is what the "Surge Power" rating is for) could shut down your inverter using 2 AWG cables.
Brent S
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I don’t know wire sizes by heart by any means, but am smart enough to look them up. Google is fantastic for finding out almost anything! One thing I’m concerned about is today when I took the panel cover in the camper off I found it has a converter, for turning AC to DC. I’m not sure if when I connect my inverter to the main panel if it will backfeed and affect it or not. Well, I will find out soon! There’s nothing worse than when you hook something up and you end up letting all the smoke out of it. In electrical theory there is a rule that everything has smoke inside of it. An electricians job is to try and keep the smoke inside of things.
I finished the work on the tongue of the trailer today. Got the gas regulator mounted, reinstalled all the cables mounted underneath, and connected the two batteries up to the camper and each other. Tomorrow will be the solar charger and cable installs. I have to penetrate the shell of the camper for that and am still deciding where to do that. Moving forwards at least. Now the camper is back to where it was when I first got it but with double the battery and propane capacity, and the tongue was cleaned and repainted.
Ok. like 100 miles. I did a search, so that is a nah.
They do deliver, iirc. Don’t know if the numbers would work for you, though.
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