Caltrops Anti Personnel Devise

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MaterielGeneral

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Here is good cheap ancient way to provide anti personnel defenses. In the picture is a Caltrop. These were used all the way into middle ages and the Ninja in feudal Japan used them as well. No matter how you throw them a point will always stick up. Here is the YouTube link that gave me the idea to make these.



A buddy that I was in the national guard with and worked at the prison together with are going to make a good amount of these and put into storage until needed. This was our first prototype. Were going to make some out of re bar for vehicle stopping. Better to stop or slow down someone away from home instead of on your doorstop. Not a lot of those will be needed I am guessing. The normal size for antipersonnel will be good for its intended purposes but they are also good for depressions that an attacker could hide in as a hasty attack position or other areas that you want to deny an attacker on or near your property.
 

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but if you use these as anti-personel you'd better remember where you have them,they make an "ouch" on ones foot just as bad as to the enemy
and if they are deployd as a perimeter defence,make sure your dog don't step on them,if you have one.
but it's a cheap way to make "ouch" to the enemy.
 
but if you use these as anti-personel you'd better remember where you have them,they make an "ouch" on ones foot just as bad as to the enemy
and if they are deployd as a perimeter defence,make sure your dog don't step on them,if you have one.
but it's a cheap way to make "ouch" to the enemy.

The way I am thinking right now is they would only get deployed if a known threat is going to attack in WROL. If I were to deploy otherwise then It would be on the perimeter fence line minus all known (to us) exits. If that were to happen then neighbors would be warned that if they want to visit even if it is an emergency they must enter thru an armed checkpoint.
 
I would also recommend using a welding mask for the welding part & not just safety glasses, but good video. Easy and quick to make.

Not my video but a good one I found. My Army/correction officer buddy the welder wears a welding mask. Once we get serious about welding these they are going to be on galvanized nails (all I could find at Home Depot that met my criteria). Yes we will use a fan for the fumes. Some are nails with these ribs(don't know what you call it) and another nail that is like a cork screw. Should be fun.
 
I realize it should be a given for most here, but the guy who was showing the item needed didn't have one in the video and you know that there is always a few out there. . . when we do welding projects its always outside so fumes is never an issue. Hunny did get a piece of metal lodged in his eye cutting metal before, even wearing his sunglasses. Let's just say it was hard to watch the ER doc dislodge that sucker!
 
was wondering,if you find a trolley,which you cannibalise with a good wirecutter,it's stainless,all welded,the amount of caltrops is quite
good you get from it..
upload_2017-7-8_5-49-31.jpeg
and you don't need the eyelets to be that big.
 
These were used way before the middle ages, Alexander the Great was known to use very similar weaponry in a couple of his battles. They were also used against the Romans at the height of their power. The Romans started putting barbs on them later adopting them in battle. You can use small 3/8 steel brake lines that will bypass self sealing tires given brake lines are hollow ;)
 
made a small bundle of these "toys",got me a shelve from a trolley,so it was alot of cutting and bending,still have to sharpen 'em,but even in the current
state I prefer not to put my feet on one ;)
 
just a thought,if you wanna go "really unholy nasty" with these little things,if used as anti-personel and not against vehicles,dip them in feces...
and we have a lucky winner with a huge infection :oops:
 
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just a thought,if you wanna go "really unholy nasty" with these little things,if used as anti-personel and not against vehicles,dip them in feces...
and we have a lucky winner with a huge infection :oops:

Feces works okay...but to get a better result, one should mix equal parts fresh bird feces, any animal blood, and finely chopped-up raw shellfish. If you live inland, fresh water snails, clams, and/or crayfish work very well.

I reccomend that you handle caltrops that have been treated with this material with a pair of tongs that are reserved only for this purpose.

Also, if you use an engraving tool to cut small grooves in the metal near the tips...there will be more surface area for the mixture to adhere to...and lethality will be improved.
 
though,this first batch of caltrops didn't turn out as "pretty" as I wanted,another must be done ( one flaw I carry with me,what ever I do must look nice or pretty ;) ) even these things of pain.
 
I'm not going to mess around with feces because it is at my location on my perimeter and the chance of somebody getting hurt while slim is still there and with caltrops being out in the open the feces will just get washed off in the rain.

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Now if there is an enemy encampment you could always infiltrate, deploy the caltrops with the feces on it and then get out of there. The caltrops will injured the enemy forces and then the injured people slowly get sick and the dying will hurt the morale very bad. Just something to consider. You always want to harm the morale of your enemy. Defeating a low morale army is greater than a motivated one.

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Unfortunately all I could find at Home Depot for the length that I wanted was galvanized nails if if it was normal nails they would rust and rust equals tetanus

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Just remember that if you're going to be welding on galvanized material use plenty of ventilation at the source and wear a good respirator. Zinc oxide is poisonous and can make you pretty sick. Whenever I've had to weld on galvanized steel I would drink a couple glasses of milk. Milk tends to lesson the effects of galvanize poisoning. You can always grind or burn off the zinc coating if you want it to develop a layer of rust.
 
Just remember that if you're going to be welding on galvanized material use plenty of ventilation at the source and wear a good respirator. Zinc oxide is poisonous and can make you pretty sick. Whenever I've had to weld on galvanized steel I would drink a couple glasses of milk. Milk tends to lesson the effects of galvanize poisoning. You can always grind or burn off the zinc coating if you want it to develop a layer of rust.
Yeah good tip. Didn't know about the milk. We planned on doing a little grinding and having a fan on. If we have to then wear a gas mask.

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Well y'all, I'm simply going to take some boards and hammer some 20 penny nails in 'em (no welding required), and have those points facing up (placed in a footfall trenches). Plenty of dry leaves around to obscure them, and right along the outside of all the fencing. Have fun. Note, it's more on the OUTSIDE of the fencing, so won't endanger the horses.
 
Well y'all, I'm simply going to take some boards and hammer some 20 penny nails in 'em (no welding required), and have those points facing up (placed in a footfall trenches). Plenty of dry leaves around to obscure them, and right along the outside of all the fencing. Have fun. Note, it's more on the OUTSIDE of the fencing, so won't endanger the horses.
That is one method that will work. I plan on doing that in some areas While using the caltrops in other areas. I will have many other methods intertwined to make a strong defense.

There are many methods that you can use that are low tech but work very well. Some are man killers and others designed to ruin morale.

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I mentioned this in another thread.

Fake rocks. (weather treated paper mache or thin fiberglass). Place them in the field. For you, they work as range markers. For the enemy, they seem like cover (until they get behind one). Really, they then only ran right to a bullseye target.

I'm also a big fan of strobes (especially if the enemy is using night vision).

Just a couple more little gems...
 
I mentioned this in another thread.

Fake rocks. (weather treated paper mache or thin fiberglass). Place them in the field. For you, they work as range markers. For the enemy, they seem like cover (until they get behind one). Really, they then only ran right to a bullseye target.

I'm also a big fan of strobes (especially if the enemy is using night vision).

Just a couple more little gems...
I don't remember the original source but my favorite is fish hooks from tree branches.
In combat it is very quick. Shoot, move and communicate.
If you are attacking a position speed is your friend. If you get hung up you are then a sitting duck. Can you imagine moving quickly and all of a sudden you get a hook in your face?

Something else that is good is a 12ga shell in a 3/4" PVC pipe with a model rocket fuse in it. Specific location detonation and it's pretty cheap. Every LP/OP should have several.

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I mentioned this in another thread.

Fake rocks. (weather treated paper mache or thin fiberglass). Place them in the field. For you, they work as range markers. For the enemy, they seem like cover (until they get behind one). Really, they then only ran right to a bullseye target.

I'm also a big fan of strobes (especially if the enemy is using night vision).

Just a couple more little gems...
I forgot to mention that Walmart carries a motion activated spotlight for$20. that works pretty good. Night vision cannot hide you from that. I do have the solar kind also.

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motion detector lights are kind of a given here in rural areas...especially the solar ones.
 
motion detector lights are kind of a given here in rural areas...especially the solar ones.
For the most part yes but you don't have the lights near the house or other buildings/shelters because that will allow your enemy to count your numbers and see what areas are busy.
You put the lights on certain areas of your property line and definitely in areas your LP/ OP are observing. Night vision works great in darkness and helps keep you concealed but you can't hide from motion activated lights or alarms.
Tripwire rat traps with chemlights work pretty great also.

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Well y'all, I'm simply going to take some boards and hammer some 20 penny nails in 'em (no welding required), and have those points facing up (placed in a footfall trenches). Plenty of dry leaves around to obscure them, and right along the outside of all the fencing. Have fun. Note, it's more on the OUTSIDE of the fencing, so won't endanger the horses.
I like toe picks. Learned from an old school engineer. Drive five - 2 ft stakes in the ground in the shape of dice holes about half way in the ground. Then string barb wire about tripping high connecting them all. That would be one, but you need a line of them. Purpose is to slow dismounted advance on avenue of approach. Can be real nasty at night, can cause serious injury if anyone falls on the stake, best case scenario would be cuts from barb wire. Best if overwarched by machine gun on tripod set to fire just over the obstacle. Usually combined with tripple strant behind it. I also like anti-vehicle ditches. Its all a out what the obstacle is intended to do (turn, block, or fix) in order to support your defensive plan, which is highly dependent on your terrain and weapon systems. Remember, an obstacle is worthless without a weapon system overwatching it. But I think yall were talking about booby traps. I try to stay away from them because I will forget and either hurt or kill myself LOL

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