keeping it sharp

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grayghost668

A True Doomsday Prepper
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I like my knife to be razor sharp but unlike my Grand Father who could get one sharp with a rock if he had to,,,,I can not sharpen a knife to save my soul,,,I used the Lansky system for years and it works very well,,,,then one day at a knife show I found a real knife sharpening setup and traded for it,,,,,,I have used it for all sorts of things knife making to wood working,,,it is pricey but to me was well worth it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
so tell me how many poor saps out there are like me and can not use a stone
Sharp%20Machine.JPG
 
I like my knife to be razor sharp but unlike my Grand Father who could get one sharp with a rock if he had to,,,,I can not sharpen a knife to save my soul,,,I used the Lansky system for years and it works very well,,,,then one day at a knife show I found a real knife sharpening setup and traded for it,,,,,,I have used it for all sorts of things knife making to wood working,,,it is pricey but to me was well worth it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
so tell me how many poor saps out there are like me and can not use a stone
Sharp%20Machine.JPG
That's one heck of a set up there. Nice. I do ok with a stone. Maybe not as good as factory but close. My son got me a diamond sharpener for cmass and it works really well. It's a little more portable too.
 
That's quite the setup there. I use several types of stones and steels for keeping my knives razor sharp. One is a natural Arkansas stone, course and fine, another is a diamond stone. For steels I have a fine steel and a pocket size diamond steel. I've never used an electric sharpener before on my knives, but my wife uses one for her kitchen knives. So far she won't let me use it on my knives. Some day I'll sneak it out for a test drive....
 
I have so many sharpening gadgets but no skill. About all I can do is get a working edge on a Opinel, SAK, or other thin blades; I have a problem with anything thicker.

I am trying to practice more to maintain an edge than sharpen it, but find it hard to know when it is time to touch it to a ceramic hone.
 
I have so many sharpening gadgets but no skill. About all I can do is get a working edge on a Opinel, SAK, or other thin blades; I have a problem with anything thicker.

I am trying to practice more to maintain an edge than sharpen it, but find it hard to know when it is time to touch it to a ceramic hone.


Lansky knife sharpening kit,,,if I can get one sharp with it any one can
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I use Japanese toishi, king stones and Arkansas stones, I also have various grit Whetstone's and Lansky lpuck stones plus a couple of pocket Lansky/Smith sharpeners and diamond pocket sharpener (my only high-tech) for emergency field sharpening, I never had much trust in them larger wonder sharpeners and kits though never used them either so my opinion may be unfounded?

I only use oil with my Arkansas stones everything else is water, once you go to oil than your stone is committed to oil only (water far easier to come by plus some stones are purely water only)
 
I use a Smith's Diamond/Arkansas Precision Sharpening Kit. It's hard to find on Amazon unless you search for the exact name of the kit (Diamond/Arkansas Stones Precision Knife Sharpening System). This kit is two steps up from their Field Sharpening Kit (which they now call the "Standard Precision Sharpening System". The Arkansas stone allows you to put a much keener edge on the knife, and the angle guide has four positions instead of two, and does a better job of clamping the edge securely.

Here is the link to the Kit on Amazon U.S.:
https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-50592-Arkansas-Precision-Sharpening/dp/B00VTO5MHM

And the link to the Kit on Amazon Canada:
https://www.amazon.ca/Smiths-Abrasives-50591-Precision-Sharpening/dp/B00T4XTESI

81pUCfnzRtL._SL1500_.jpg
 
I like my knife to be razor sharp but unlike my Grand Father who could get one sharp with a rock if he had to,,,,I can not sharpen a knife to save my soul,,,I used the Lansky system for years and it works very well,,,,then one day at a knife show I found a real knife sharpening setup and traded for it,,,,,,I have used it for all sorts of things knife making to wood working,,,it is pricey but to me was well worth it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
so tell me how many poor saps out there are like me and can not use a stone
Sharp%20Machine.JPG
I can't sharpen worth a S_ _ _. I am on this forum to learn a thing or two, I think I ruined a hatchet on the grinder but it was in bad shape anyway. Gotta figure this out.
 
Ok, so, sharpening in general, I have been bringing long handled tools that have no edge yet to work and my brother gets an edge with a handheld grinder while the new shovel, hoe, etc., is in the vise. I tried at home but didn't have the right equipment to get to the right angle. Now that there is an edge I'd like to keep it. Can't believe I have gone so many years without getting serious about my sharpening abilities. So is mineral oil a good substitute for honing oil and if a stone hasn't used oil yet, should I start it out on oil or stick with water. What about those old wheels, can still find them around here sometimes, the ones that sharpen when cranked by hand and mounted on the bench and the peddle ones with a large stone and a seat to peddle from, I saw one that had a holder where you could hang a bucket with a hole in it to drip on the stone as you peddled. Sounded like a good idea if you had not power. Whatcha think bros? or gals? as the case may be.
 
File on axe not grinder [emoji6] unless it’s a low rpm wet wheel
I have been practicing on every dull edge around the place. I think that is what it takes is practice and to be consistent in the angle and pressure. I have now successfully sharpened 4 hatchets, a hoe, shears and a shovel. I find myself actually enjoying the process now. I purchased a lansky puck and found that item very handy. I am using baby oil as my sharpening oil as I didn't have any true "honing" oil and didn't want to buy it.
 
It is enjoying. The thing to remember about the axe is the whole head isn't hardened to the same specs, as the bit shortens from sharpening the closer it moves back to softer steel, most cheap axes are harden from the bit to the paint or half inch beyond the paint (cheek), even on expensive axes using a high rpm grinder to sharpen the bit one can heat it up enough to make the bit soft, very apparent on hard wood and knotty wood. Good way to check quality of the bit is split hard wood and check for edge rolls or chips ;)
 
It is enjoying. The thing to remember about the axe is the whole head isn't hardened to the same specs, as the bit shortens from sharpening the closer it moves back to softer steel, most cheap axes are harden from the bit to the paint or half inch beyond the paint (cheek), even on expensive axes using a high rpm grinder to sharpen the bit one can heat it up enough to make the bit soft, very apparent on hard wood and knotty wood. Good way to check quality of the bit is split hard wood and check for edge rolls or chips ;)
Ahhhhh, I see, they haven't explained this on Forged in Fire!:)
 
carborundum stone, the round ones they use to sharpen grass hooks, I break it in two with a hammer and keep it in my emergency bag. in fact I have several, I bought a load at £1 each from a budget store.
Grass hooks or hand scythe I found to be tricky, got it sharpened but the freaking curve of the blade, and the edge on the inside of the curve. Tricky. what is this round stone you speak of my friend?
 

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