MaterielGeneral
Active Member
I like. Great job.View attachment 7329 some more sharpening maybe,but would not wanna step on one..
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I like. Great job.View attachment 7329 some more sharpening maybe,but would not wanna step on one..
That is one method that will work. I plan on doing that in some areas While using the caltrops in other areas. I will have many other methods intertwined to make a strong defense.Well y'all, I'm simply going to take some boards and hammer some 20 penny nails in 'em (no welding required), and have those points facing up (placed in a footfall trenches). Plenty of dry leaves around to obscure them, and right along the outside of all the fencing. Have fun. Note, it's more on the OUTSIDE of the fencing, so won't endanger the horses.
I don't remember the original source but my favorite is fish hooks from tree branches.I mentioned this in another thread.
Fake rocks. (weather treated paper mache or thin fiberglass). Place them in the field. For you, they work as range markers. For the enemy, they seem like cover (until they get behind one). Really, they then only ran right to a bullseye target.
I'm also a big fan of strobes (especially if the enemy is using night vision).
Just a couple more little gems...
I forgot to mention that Walmart carries a motion activated spotlight for$20. that works pretty good. Night vision cannot hide you from that. I do have the solar kind also.I mentioned this in another thread.
Fake rocks. (weather treated paper mache or thin fiberglass). Place them in the field. For you, they work as range markers. For the enemy, they seem like cover (until they get behind one). Really, they then only ran right to a bullseye target.
I'm also a big fan of strobes (especially if the enemy is using night vision).
Just a couple more little gems...
For the most part yes but you don't have the lights near the house or other buildings/shelters because that will allow your enemy to count your numbers and see what areas are busy.motion detector lights are kind of a given here in rural areas...especially the solar ones.
I like toe picks. Learned from an old school engineer. Drive five - 2 ft stakes in the ground in the shape of dice holes about half way in the ground. Then string barb wire about tripping high connecting them all. That would be one, but you need a line of them. Purpose is to slow dismounted advance on avenue of approach. Can be real nasty at night, can cause serious injury if anyone falls on the stake, best case scenario would be cuts from barb wire. Best if overwarched by machine gun on tripod set to fire just over the obstacle. Usually combined with tripple strant behind it. I also like anti-vehicle ditches. Its all a out what the obstacle is intended to do (turn, block, or fix) in order to support your defensive plan, which is highly dependent on your terrain and weapon systems. Remember, an obstacle is worthless without a weapon system overwatching it. But I think yall were talking about booby traps. I try to stay away from them because I will forget and either hurt or kill myself LOLWell y'all, I'm simply going to take some boards and hammer some 20 penny nails in 'em (no welding required), and have those points facing up (placed in a footfall trenches). Plenty of dry leaves around to obscure them, and right along the outside of all the fencing. Have fun. Note, it's more on the OUTSIDE of the fencing, so won't endanger the horses.
I don't get the barb wire. How are cut up pieces going to stop anything? In my opinion it is not rigid enough.They were designed to cripple horses originally, i cut mine from barbed wire its easier than making them.
I guess it would depend on the gauge and type of barb, and what the intended use was for? I don't get why bullfrogs do not have machine guns... Just kidding. Sorry had to have a little fun there.I don't get the barb wire. How are cut up pieces going to stop anything? In my opinion it is not rigid enough.
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I don't get the barb wire. How are cut up pieces going to stop anything? In my opinion it is not rigid enough.
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It's like a mini claymore. The wires go to your hide (battery)or some type of detonator like a motion detector or? The wires to your hide is better because a human can determine the detonation. The PVC goes over the 12ga shell to contain the blast and send it down range and it's disposal.Something else that is good is a 12ga shell in a 3/4" PVC pipe with a model rocket fuse in it. Specific location detonation and it's pretty cheap. Every LP/OP should have several.
I don’t quite understand what this could make?
How would the wires get into the shotgun shell? Do you drill into it?It's like a mini claymore. The wires go to your hide (battery)or some type of detonator like a motion detector or? The wires to your hide is better because a human can determine the detonation. The PVC goes over the 12ga shell to contain the blast and send it down range and it's disposal.
You can do it similar with a rat trap but it is like a landmine in that configuration. Not good.
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You gut it and then reassemble it.How would the wires get into the shotgun shell? Do you drill into it?
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